Guess what day it is?

HUMP DAY!

I want to show off my new vintage patterns!

 

I got this 1940s dress pattern with 2 bodice variations from Advance.  No lines on this pattern.  It's all punches.  It will be interesting working with this pattern, but it will be loads of fun too.

 

I also got this mail order pattern.  It doesn't look like J.D. Blackburn for Jefferson, TX ever made this dress.  She has a rural free delivery address, so I can't google map it to see what the place looks like now.  Son, I am disappoint.  I can't be the only crazy who looks up old addresses to see what became of them, right?  My great-great-great grandparent's place in Germany is now the home of a REALLY big commercial building.  Probably a good location for industry because it is on one of those rivers over there.  That marble in my it's-almost-midnight brain is smacking around like my head is a pinball machine.

 

I LOVE this pattern.  It's the vintage version of a wardrober pattern. (Yes, I know a wardrober is an obsolete term for the person in charge of the clothes for their employer.  I'm using it anyway.)  This pattern has a gusset, which makes me incredibly happy.  I want to try gussets more because of my giant for-my-size biceps.  Gussets might help make a great fitting sleeve without making the armscye crazy-big.

 

One thing that caught my eye on the pattern itself is that it says it uses the Bishop Method.  My limited research says this method focuses on fitting everything on the grain and constructing garments one "unit" at a time--the bodice unit contains front/back/facings, skirt unit, sleeve unit, etc.  The sleeves are on their own until they get attached to the bodice, in which case, they get deemed part of the bodice unit.  Clear as mud?  There are a few books out there about the Bishop Method and I think I'll try to get my hands on one to explore this concept further.  It makes sense to me though.

 

Not a vintage pattern, but I managed to score this one too.  I love View A--that red dress in the middle.  It seems like a great pattern for dressing up and dressing down. 

I've also been working on New Look 6020 over the last week or so.  This pattern was my choice for many fashion plates recently.  It's definitely one I need to make since I seem to choose it so often.  The biggest hangup I found with the pattern was the lack of pockets.  Adding side seam pockets would be easy enough except the pattern has a side zipper.  ugh.  I have a workaround and I am going to work on a tutorial for drafting your own pockets.  I'm a chronic over-explainer and I need to make sure my language is clear and the pictures follow along.  Tutorials are hard!

 

 

SOON. 

Not quite as soon for me. . . 

 

I'm going here in August!  I'm trying to decide which Cirque du Soleil show to see, which campground to stay at when I go to the Grand Canyon, what other side trips I want to take, if it's safe to walk to the hotel from the airport, whether I can pack my camping gear or if I have to rent :( and on and on and on. So many things to think about in so little time.  At least I have my flight booked!  Have to start somewhere.

 

I found this when I GIS random salad.  LOLWUT?

Fashion Plate: Streak of Success

ModCloth has several versions of the Streak of Success skirt from what I can tell on the website, each called something different.  This skirt looks like a great wardrobe-builder to me, with or without the ribbon detail.  I chose Simplicity 1369, View D for this look.  It has pockets!  The button detail on the back of the inspiration skirt is a vintage detail not often found on modern patterns.  In order to add that button closure, simply extend the waistband pattern pieces about 1.5".  This will give you enough for a regular seam allowance and a 5/8" button.  I ♥♥ FREAKING LOVE ♥♥ rayon/spandex blends, so I chose this navy rayon/lycra jersey for this look.  You could make the ribbon any color.  I tried to keep to the original and found this 3/8" yellow satin ribbon.  I think this skirt would look absolutely stunning with a red ribbon too.  

This skirt will cost you approximately $21 if you use my fabric and pattern suggestions.  The skirt takes about 2.5 yards of fabric ($12.50), maybe 3 yards of ribbon ($1 because I'm figuring you'll buy a spool at the store), and $8 for the pattern (which you'll probably get for $1 during a JoAnn's pattern sale).  

You can make a whole bunch of these skirts for very little money.  This is why I love sewing.  I can make this same look for 1/3 the price and my skirt will be sewn with more detail and made to last.  Can you tell I just started reading Overdressed:  The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion?

Fashion Plate: Seaside Sketching Dress

Today's inspiration comes from ModCloth's Seaside Sketching dress.  I saw this New Look pattern, 9724, and I had to buy it.  I had no plans for it at all, but I loved the bodice variations and the twirly skirt.  It just needs pockets to be perfect.  That gives me an idea for my next project actually.  Yay!  I am in a creative slump at the moment.  I'm not sure what is causing it.  It needs to go away!  Back on topic:  I couldn't find a fabric I really loved to match the ModCloth dress, so I went with a similar color scheme in the fabulous rayon challis.  That's all I have time for today.

 

Happy creating!

(Pattern) Stash Enhancement

I keep a list on my phone of patterns I like while I'm reading blogs.  It's always ready when JoAnn's is having pattern sales.  I bought a bunch of patterns over the last couple weeks and I'll probably pick up some McCall's patterns tomorrow during the 99¢ sale.

 

 

Butterick 5930 has princess seams, a faux-wrap style, and a collar.

 

Simplicity 2146 has princess seams, 4 sleeve options, and 2 neckline options.

 

Simplicity 2648 has princess seams, two bodice options, and two sleeve options.  You can also choose between a tab and a belt front.

 

Simplicity 1801 has a knee and maxi length and a couple sleeve options.  Not for knits though, despite the surplice dress look.

 

Simplicity 1666 has a dress, skirt, and peplum top pattern, as well as a tote.  Lisette patterns are made by the same designer of the Oliver + S patterns.  I wish I was close enough to small children to sew cute things for them.  Eh. Who am I kidding?  I'm too selfish for that nonsense.

 

Simplicity 1606 has princess seams and a circle skirt. Optional lace overlay, halter, or high neck bodice.

 

This is New Look 6020 (not on sale below the standard $3.99 price), which has three neckline options, a belt, and a clutch.  I just had to have this one.  I love the neckline options, especially D.

 

Simplicity 2337 has front and sleeve variations.  I'm not digging the gathered sleeves, but I love the gathered front.

 

Butterick 5932 is PJs.  I made the tank/dress version A already.  It needs to be less cold outside, so I can take photos of it.  

 

Butterick 5953 is a fitted wrap dress with a back godet and side front button closure.

 

Butterick 5882 has a close-fitting boned bodice with princess seams and a bias pleated bra and straps.

 

Butterick 5814 is the Joan Holloway wiggle dress.  Seriously.  The season 4 (I think) Mad Men poster has Joan in a dress just like this.  Thanks for the dress, Gertie.

 

Speaking of Gertie. . . I finally got her book!  

 

I've only read to page 34 so far, but I'm so in love with it!  I read several not so stellar reviews on this book, but I had to give it a go myself.  It has so much information in it.  The techniques section is amazing.

 

This is just two pages of fabric descriptions--there's more!  I love this illustration.

 

The size chart is a little weird.  I think I'm a "5" according to this and my high bust measurement.  I'm not sure which cup size these patterns are written for, but I imagine I will read something about that in the book.  I always get confused on the hip measurement too.  My butt is at least 2" bigger than my actual hips.  Should I make the size that's bigger to match my butt, or is that largely irrelevant if there is a skirt involved?  There are so many of these things I just have to learn.  I was working on the Clover pants (yes, still!) and I keep going back and forth between what size to make.  I think I'm just going to have to go with it and hope for a wearable muslin.  These actual muslins are getting old.

 

Gertie shows the innards of most of the garments in the book.  I think that's so important, especially when you are teaching couture.  I want to see your silk organza and horsehair.  You are telling me it's important for reason XYZ, yet you leave the reader open to interpret shortcuts taken by the sewer by not showing the inside.  I want to see what the insides look like!

 

Here's the pattern envelope and the pattern pages.  The patterns are printed double-sided on a fairly thick paper.  This is another something I've read negative things about.  I actually LOVE the thicker paper.  This will be so much easier for tracing.

 

There are only 5 folded pattern pages in my book, so hopefully they're all there! I spent a big chunk of Saturday tracing patterns.  I don't think I'll have any pattern tracing mojo for a while, which is perfectly fine by me.  I need to get reading!